...that is the question.

To eat out has two different meanings in Luleå. Treat yourself and visit one of the local gourmet restaurants, where skilled chefs cook local ingre­dients, offering you a taste palette from Swedish Lapland. You simply have to eat the delicious, nutritious game, reindeer and elk that have lived in the wild, enjoy game fish that have swum in pure, clear waters and let yourself be seduced by blueberries, cloudberries, arctic raspberries and lingonberries that have ripened in the midnight sun.

To eat out also has a different, more literal meaning here in Luleå – when the food is served outside. Nothing tastes quite as good as a meal cooked over an open fire, especially when it rounds off a day of great outdoor activities. A muurikka, a large griddle pan, is often used to cook suovas (smoked reindeer meat) or palt (Swedish potato dumplings). And be sure to drink pot boiled coffee. The pot boiled coffee is something of a specialty and a signature beverage in the region. It is served hot in a wooden cup, strong and black it will warm you and sharpen your senses. 

If you’d rather enjoy a latte in a café setting, sit back and feel the city pulse, you have come to the right place. There are number of nice cafés and patisseries to choose from. One thing is for sure: good food and good company are two important parts of the Luleå experience. Welcome to the table!

Local culinary dictionary

MUURIKKA: Portable griddle pan, reminiscent of a wok, suitable for cooking outdoors over an open fire.

PALT: Balls/dumplings made with potato, flour and salt, and, depending on the chef, maybe filled with salted pork. Served with butter and lingonberry jam. If you eat too many, you will become drowsy, or as the locals would say, end up in a palt coma.

SURSTRÖMMING: Fermented Baltic herring, served with boiled potatoes and onion, rolled in flatbread. The smell when opening the can is very peculiar but the taste is known to be far more pleasant, mainly salty.

KAFFEOST: Coffee cheese, also known as Finnish squeaky cheese, for the squeaking sound it makes between your teeth when diced and submerged in a hot cup of coffee, instead of pastries. Also makes a good dessert, lightly fried with warm cloudberries.

GÁHKKU: Chewy Sami flatbread, preferably made on a muurikka. Closely related to the other Swedish flatbreads klådda and glödkaka (lit. ‘ember cake’).

SOUVAS: Lightly smoked reindeer meat, often salted for preser- vation. Excellent for outdoor cooking.

TJÄLKNÖL: Frozen wild game, cooked as a steak, on a low heat for many hours, then placed in a salty brine and refrigerated for a few hours before being served as cold cuts.

KÅSA: Traditional drinking or serving container made out of wood, for drinking coffee out in the forest.

Mulled wine in a kåsa tastes the best with saffron buns.